London river walk is a step back in time

I’ve had two days in London, a quick hop between a trip to Italy and a family visit in Scotland, and it hasn’t been long enough. However, I have a spare hour before I leave to board the train at King’s Cross for my journey to Edinburgh, so I think I’ve just enough time to squeeze in a final walk.

My base has been the Premier Inn Bank (Tower) hotel, and it has proved an excellent location for exploring the area around the River Thames. A five-minute walk takes me to the steps at London Bridge, I make my way down and follow the Thames Path walk along the North Bank.

I’m heading west towards Millennium Bridge, which will bring me to St Paul’s Cathedral. The route is dotted with commuters and joggers but is quiet enough for my walk to feel leisurely. I’m enjoying the views of the riverside and the contrast of old and new architecture. Some modern structures peek out behind beautiful old stonework and some classic properties seem to rise from the middle of contemporary buildings.

Every now and then I’m diverted behind the riverfront through passageways and archways. I wonder as to the safety because some of the passages are quite dark, but there are still people about and plenty of CCTV, so I figure I’ll be OK.

After a 15-minute stroll I reach Millennium Bridge, and making my way up the steps I am rewarded with magnificent views of St Paul’s set majestically against a perfect blue sky. The pristine white Portland stone church is framed by red brick buildings, lush green trees and as a traditional red London bus pulls up at the traffic lights, it makes quite the striking scene.

The Millenium Bridge has St Paul’s on one side and the Tate Modern on the other. The pedestrian crossing features in the opening scene of Harry Potter And The Half-Blood Prince when the Death Eaters destroy the bridge. Again, I enjoy the contrast of the modern stainless-steel bridge with the 17th century English baroque cathedral.

The original cathedral was built in 604 AD but was destroyed by fire in 1087. A new cathedral was commissioned by William the Conqueror and consecrated in 1240. Once again, the cathedral was destroyed by fire, this time in the Great Fire of London in 1666.

One of Britain’s most famous architects, Sir Christopher Wren designed the cathedral we see today, and he was the first person to be buried in its tombs. The cathedral’s crypt also holds the remains of Winston Churchill, Alexander Fleming and Admiral Lord Nelson. Completed in 1710, and topped by one of the world’s biggest domes, at 111m tall, it is one of London’s most striking and recognisable landmarks.

Although the walk along to Millennium Bridge has been pleasant, venturing along Three Cranes Walk had me holding my breath as a very unpleasant smell wafted out from what I believe is Walbrook Wharf. At certain times of the day rubbish from industrial premises and households is taken to the wharf, where it is loaded onto barges. The refuse is then towed down river by tug to an incinerator plant in south-east London. To avoid this on my return journey I walk back on the south side of the river, fortuitously, as the route takes me past the Globe Theatre and gives views from a different angle. I’m aiming for London Bridge but can also see Tower Bridge beyond.

Another diversion takes me from the riverside and past traditional English pub, The Anchor, sombre brown brick resplendent with contrasting red paintwork and colourful floral hanging baskets. Next door I notice another Premier Inn. This too would be a great spot to make your base.

Another archway leads me past street art paying homage to William Shakespeare. A nod to the Globe Theatre I have not long passed.

Onwards and next is Southwark Cathedral, the jagged top of The Shard visible beyond the church’s traditional clock tower. Southwark was Shakespeare’s parish, where he wrote most of his plays when he was connected to the nearby Globe. The cathedral features a memorial to The Bard, a sculpture of a reclined Shakespeare is topped by a stained-glass window showing characters from several of his plays, as well as quotes from The Tempest.

And now I’m back to where I started. I climb the steps up London Bridge and make my way back to my hotel.

The last landmark I see is The Monument, designed by Sir Christopher Wren and Robert Hooke as a tribute to those who perished in the Great Fire of London. The fluted Doric column built of Portland stone, topped with a gilded orb of fire stands at 202ft (61m) tall, the distance to the bakery in Pudding Lane, where the fire started. Decorated with a stone carving depicting Charles II coming to assist the slumped figure of the City of London, the monument has an internal spiral staircase of 311 steps leading to a balcony with panoramic views of the city.

As I continue up Monument Street I look back and admire the column’s golden top sparkling in the sunshine.